Akron's Signature Creamy French Dressing: A Culinary Journey
Delve into the fascinating journey of Akron White French dressing, a culinary staple deeply rooted in the heart of Akron, Ohio. This distinctive condiment, characterized by its luxurious creaminess and harmonious sweet-tangy notes, has transcended its local origins to become a cherished regional delicacy. Its story is one of serendipitous evolution, transforming from a local favorite to a versatile component in various dishes.
The Unveiling of Akron's Culinary Gem: White French Dressing
In a charming anecdote that intertwines local pride with culinary heritage, Akron, Ohio's minor league baseball team, the RubberDucks, once temporarily rebranded as the Akron White French, a playful nod to a local culinary secret. This creamy, mayonnaise-based salad dressing, a sweet and tangy concoction, remains a unique flavor to Akronites, often unknown beyond the city's borders. Chef Vinnie Cimino, a native of Akron, passionately serves this dressing at his Cleveland establishment, Cordelia, observing the delight it brings to his Akron patrons, who are often surprised to find their hometown favorite on a menu outside of Akron. This journey of taste extends beyond regional borders, highlighting the dressing's growing appeal.
A conversation with Chef Cimino revealed the core ingredients of this beloved dressing: mayonnaise, generous amounts of sugar, white vinegar, onions, garlic, white pepper, and salt. He likens it to an enhanced buttermilk dressing or a herb-free, sweeter ranch. For a deeper understanding, Cimino suggested reaching out to Ken Stewart, his former mentor and owner of three renowned restaurants in Akron.
Stewart, though not the originator, played a pivotal role in popularizing this dressing over the last three decades. He shared its intriguing history, which he believes began with Stouffer's, a Cleveland-founded restaurant chain now known primarily for its frozen foods. Stouffer's served a preliminary version of white French dressing, a sweet vinaigrette thickened with cornstarch, distinct from the tomato-based red French dressing by its lack of tomato and minimal paprika. This initial offering, however, laid the groundwork for what would become Akron's unique white French dressing.
The current iteration of Akron White French dressing emerged when Stewart acquired Foley's Restaurant in 1990. The acquisition included a unique recipe for a mayonnaise-based white French dressing, believed to be an evolution of Stouffer's. Stewart proudly recalls Harry Foley sharing the recipe, praising its exquisite balance of sweetness and acidity, complemented by subtle hints of onion, garlic, and white pepper, along with a few undisclosed ingredients that contribute to its unmatched flavor. This distinct dressing quickly became a cherished local staple. Insights from Mike Sicilain, a former sous chef at Foley's, further suggest that Chef Charles Schaeffer developed this mayonnaise-based recipe, which Sicilain then introduced to Papa Joe's, another esteemed local eatery, in 1988.
The dressing's popularity soared during Ken Stewart's tenure, becoming an integral part of Akron's culinary identity, much like the famous sauerkraut balls. Jane Snow, a former food writer for the Beacon-Journal, even published a highly sought-after copycat recipe for Ken Stewart's version in 2003, underscoring its widespread appeal. Today, Chef Cimino's rendition at Cordelia continues this legacy, earning him a James Beard finalist nomination and recognition as one of Food & Wine's Best New Chefs. His version, crafted with the finest seasonal ingredients such as candy onions, organic garlic from Hudson, Ohio, Duke's mayonnaise, homemade apple cider vinegar, and a touch of Bertman Ball Park Mustard, offers a fresh perspective on the classic. The writer, inspired by Cimino, developed a personal recipe that captures the dressing's signature sweet-tart flavor, balanced by fresh allium notes and warm mustard and white pepper, emphasizing the crucial overnight rest to meld flavors.
For Akronites, this dressing is a versatile culinary tool. At Cordelia, it graces not only house salads but also serves as a base for coleslaw and various creamy deli salads. Chef Cimino even suggests incorporating it into a Japanese-style potato salad, while Stewart notes its use as a sauce for steaks in his restaurants, truly showcasing its adaptability.
Reflections on a Regional Culinary Treasure
This exploration into Akron White French dressing reveals the profound impact that local traditions can have on culinary landscapes. It highlights how a seemingly simple condiment can encapsulate the spirit and identity of a community, fostering a sense of belonging and shared heritage. The dedication of chefs like Vinnie Cimino and restaurateurs like Ken Stewart in preserving and evolving such a unique recipe demonstrates the power of culinary artistry to connect people through taste. It reminds us that sometimes, the most extraordinary flavors are found in the most unexpected places, encouraging us to seek out and appreciate the distinct culinary treasures that define different regions.